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The beauty of natural silk is so alluring that it even drove our ancestors to make it a part of many religious rituals.

The effort to artificially manufacture natural silk has led to the invention of a host of fibres like nylon and rayon, but an exact duplication of natural silk has so far proved difficult. Natural silk, thus, still remains the Queen of Textiles in all its glory.

Silk Mark is here to help you to identify pure silk. The silk consumer has long struggled to identify pure silk among numerous other fibres just like the consumer of gold had difficulty recognising its purity before the introduction of hallmarks. 

Out of over five hundred different types of silk spinning worms, only four are commercially exploited for the production of natural silk, namely mulberry, tasar, eri, and muga. The latter three varieties are collectively branded as ‘vanya' silks, which are wild silks. Vanya silk literally means 'forest silk'. India is the only country that currently produces all four types of natural silk.

KANJIVARAM

Traditionally made by weavers from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, the Kanchipuram silk sari is distinguished by its wide contrast borders. They are hand-woven in the narrow lanes of the quaint town by the same name. The old town of Kanchipuram is renowned for its magnificent temples of unique architectural beauty bearing eloquent testimony to its glorious Dravidian heritage.

Legend and history

According to legends in Hindu mythology, Kanchi silk weavers are the descendants of Sage Markandeya, the master weaver of Gods who is supposed to have woven tissue from lotus fibre. Also, while cotton is considered to be the favourite fabric of Lord Shiva, silk was preferred by Lord Vishnu. History has it that Kanchipuram rose to eminence during Krishnadevaraya’s reign (400 years back), when two weaving communities – the Devangas and the Saliyars transmigrated to Kanchipuram from the neighboring state Andhra Pradesh. Primarily because within this seemingly minuscule town there were more than 129 finely crafted temples, and silk was always considered the ceremonial wear at religious rituals and weddings. The Devanga and Saliyar weavers were reputed for their silk weaving skills; even today the main profession of the people living in and around Kanchipuram is weaving silk sarees.

Weaving method

Kanchipuram sarees are hand woven from pure mulberry silk. The industry here is only made up of handloom weavers and merchants and does not manufacture silk or any other raw material that goes into the silk saree. The main raw materials are mulberry silk thread, metallic thread (Zari) and dye. This enhances the beauty and the value of the silk saree. The mulberry silk thread comes from the neighboring state of Karnataka, the metallic thread comes from Gujarat, and the dyes too are not manufactured in Kanchipuram. But all these materials are brought here, and the skilled artisans weave them on handlooms, creating a unique hand-made work of art in each saree. If the pallu has to be woven in a different shade, it is first separately woven and then delicately joined to the saree using age-old Korvai method (a technique to interlock the border and pallu with the body). The joint is woven so strongly that even if the saree tears, the border would not detach.

HANDLOOM

While handloom holds a very special place in our hearts, we do not look at powerlooms with disdain. For many users, a value-for money analysis can tilt the balance in favour of powerlooms as they do offer the possibility of making beautiful textiles at low costs. At HolyWeaves, we use them to make some beautiful sarees and offer them at very attractive prices in our Budget Brocade Collection. These sarees are great for normal occasions, gifting, and even regular wear. Because they use blended yarns, they often also require less care compared to a pure silk handloom saree.

A handloom product, on the other hand, is the way to go if you are looking to buy something exclusive, for yourself or your loved ones. Every handloom saree is an heirloom product that can be passed onto generations. Also, when you buy a handloom product, you directly contribute towards providing employment to a weaver for 15-30 days. 

While powerlooms have replaced handlooms the world over, they live on in India. They sustain not because manufacturers like us are still practising this age-old craft, but because there are connoisseurs like you who value the heritage, and are willing to pay the price for the craft. And you deserve our sincere gratitude.